While I was preparing for this trip, in the course of all that reading, I came across somebody's observation that the main square in Marrakesh is the world's best people watching, that it actually makes the bar scene in Star Wars seem boring. Completely true! Today I saw snake charmers with cobras and those crazy, whiny sounding oboe-like instruments; monkeys with trainers; street preachers; chefs; dentists; sellers of everything from fine silver and carpets to plastic camels; motorbikes darting everywhere; skinny, scared cats; and children begging for food from the tables of diners. I saw desperation and cunning and humor and goodwill and mercy and opportunism and cameraderie and at least one near-fistfight.
I spent the day with two other travelers from my hostel, one of whom was on his fifth trip to Morocco, so the day proceeded with a lot less time than usual wandering around in circles lost. We stopped at two former palaces which were both in fairly advanced states of disrepair and then we spent hours walking through the souks and having leisurely meals and tea, enjoying the setting and the company. Late in the afternoon, we found ourselves on a roof terrace looking down at one of the smaller souks. From the top of the second floor, we were close enough to watch the series of dramas unfolding below: would the bargain for the leather bag reach a successful conclusion or break down; would the woman with the large crate of bananas balanced precariously on top of her head make it to her stall without the entire container spilling onto the street; would the motorbike swerve just in the nick of time to spare the mother and her baby.
The thought occurred to me that I am so, so thankful to have the opportunity to be visiting here; and as strongly as I am attracted to this place, I'm even more grateful that I'm ONLY visiting here, not living my whole life here. So far, I don't think that I have observed even one easy life here in Morocco. It could be in part just because the tourism industry isn't doing as well as hoped, and we were interacting with people dependent upon that sector, but the sense of desperation among many of the people we are encountering is palpable.
I need to finish up because I have an early morning tomorrow, when I will be heading to the waterfalls at D'Ouzoud. More to come!
I spent the day with two other travelers from my hostel, one of whom was on his fifth trip to Morocco, so the day proceeded with a lot less time than usual wandering around in circles lost. We stopped at two former palaces which were both in fairly advanced states of disrepair and then we spent hours walking through the souks and having leisurely meals and tea, enjoying the setting and the company. Late in the afternoon, we found ourselves on a roof terrace looking down at one of the smaller souks. From the top of the second floor, we were close enough to watch the series of dramas unfolding below: would the bargain for the leather bag reach a successful conclusion or break down; would the woman with the large crate of bananas balanced precariously on top of her head make it to her stall without the entire container spilling onto the street; would the motorbike swerve just in the nick of time to spare the mother and her baby.
The thought occurred to me that I am so, so thankful to have the opportunity to be visiting here; and as strongly as I am attracted to this place, I'm even more grateful that I'm ONLY visiting here, not living my whole life here. So far, I don't think that I have observed even one easy life here in Morocco. It could be in part just because the tourism industry isn't doing as well as hoped, and we were interacting with people dependent upon that sector, but the sense of desperation among many of the people we are encountering is palpable.
I need to finish up because I have an early morning tomorrow, when I will be heading to the waterfalls at D'Ouzoud. More to come!
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